Dear Editor:
The recent article by Kerrin Winter-Churchill in the Aug issue of the AKC Gazette was at best misleading regarding the rattlesnake aversion training by Patrick Callahan who uses “e” (which stands for electricity) collars, also known as “shock” collars. What I take exception to is the analogy of the degree of punishment or shock given to the dogs during a rattlesnake aversion clinic. Either the author of the article is extremely naive or has bought the myth that a small shock “similar to running you feet over a carpet and then touching someone” is what is used by this dog trainer. And that a mild level of shock or “static’ as the authors called it would be at all effective in producing an aversion to a snake! Those statements are just not accurate. I have assisted in the past at these fundraising clinics as a volunteer and we would tell the owners what they wanted to hear-after all, we didn’t want them to leave or we would not get our money. We would even have a shock collar set to the lowest level possible so folks could feel the shock on their skin.

But the level of stimulation that was used during the training was much higher, in fact it was high enough to make many of the dogs vocalize (cry out), jump in the air, twist and/or run from the shock. The timing of the shock if it matters, was delivered very accurately by Mr.Callahan at the instant that the dog reacted to the snake and then I would pull the dog away hopefully teaching them to get away from the pain and the snake. I too thought the training was beneficial until I did more research. There is absolutely no data to support or prove that shocking a dog around a snake produces a lasting or any aversion to the snake. E-collar training has been around for decades- I am not opposed to people using whatever method they choose, I am a Lab breeder and well aware of training with and without e-collars.

For me it was too high a price to pay as I felt my dogs did not learn anything while they were in full body fight or flight reactions. What I oppose with this letter is the inaccuracy of the information dealing with the use of electricity and dog training during these clinics and by folks promoting them. I am writing this mainly to chide the AKC Gazette, I have always relied on the AKC Gazette articles to be accurate and balanced. The article by Kerrin Winter-Churchill was neither.
Sincerely,

Liz Harward
Matilija Labradors

The dogs that I have had the most success (and the most fun with) have had the following in common:

They seem to be:

1. Confident and bold in any environment.

2. Able to handle any surface- I did have a metal pan, wood, gravel, with this latest litter but THIS is an area to work on with baby pups from 8 to 20 weeks- rubble or whatever surface they will work on later. Small rubble piles and grates, all weird surfaces from slick to rubber to grass and hillsides any angle and all substrates. I would say this is what is lacking from many programs, not any attention to teaching the pups or exposing the pups at the right age to what they will be working on later. Lots of treats for being brave on cement blocks, a small teeter, grates, plastic, make it fun and easy but look ahead and plan your training. I recall the dogs who can just fly over anything and know this is the trait that is often needed most for disaster search work. And the opposite- the wiggy dogs that pass training regardless of the fact that they have major issues with surfaces! NOT good. Guide dogs won’t pass if they have any surface issues as it may be dangerous for the blind person if the dog works to avoid an area or is reactive to a surface- reactivity often means that they stop thinking during the reaction-not ideal for a working dog.

3. Travel well- I think it has to do with just being unflappable. The dogs that travel well enjoy themselves and are able to work in any environment so lots of short trips as pups are ideal, and I do mean overnights- a trip camping or to a hotel, dog show, a weekend trip where they need to be crated, get to have fun, spend a lot of time in the car- most show dogs get this exposure at a young age and I think most working dog folks need to do more of this. Throwing the pup in the car all the time and just towing them along before 20 weeks! They learn that it is fun and I think they just start to become more patient and not expect the same schedule so they are not stressed when there are changes in their routine.

4. Know how to use those rear legs- a funny concept but dogs that move well on surfaces also know that they have back feet- they can pick them up separately and move them easily independently from each other and from the front- this is sometimes a factor of the individual pup (born athletic) but also taught. I teach it by teaching the pups to back up at an early age. When they move the back foot- click and treat or YES! and treat , they learn to back up and feel and be safe moving backwards and forwards. Also having them climb a short ladder and clicking for the back foot going up the rung- they know they have front feet but when they get clicked and treated for the back foot at an early age they really learn to use their whole body.

5. Otfen what they learn first they learn best! (Don’t know who said that but I have found it so true- no more front sits for my pups- that is the easy position, I want really good side sits- so I start with that position.) If you start with the front they are always wheeling around in front to see your face- that kind of thinking. Also start with metal articles, leather and wood are always easy for dogs so start with the hard one- these pups have had metal but should do more as babies. (I am thinking Utility here- metal articles vs. leather). So whatever is hardest start it first- on the platforms- start the back first- generally the hardest to teach (from my experience). I now use paper plates- put a treat on it- and baby pup while sitting in front- OK, I do some front sits! – gets a “back” as she turns to go get the treat off the paper plate and then comes back to me for another treat. Pretty fun to teach a ten week old baby!

6. Learn to settle while young- I love working with dogs that can go from work to rest- I think this is about getting the heart rate up and then lowering it- so a settle for my pups is taught by actively ignoring them. Right now pup is laying by my feet and I am typing, as soon as she stops- (lays down and sighs) she gets a “good girl”, and that did make her pop up so I’ll wait longer next time to reinforce but it just allows me to ask for settle when I need it any time, any place even when they might not want to.

7. They LOVE toys and learn to work for them at an early age. I want that working dog to need the toy not just want it. I really don’t leave a bunch of toys laying around all the time, I do in the puppy pen as I am exposing them to all different things but now, the toys that I play with the pup- i.e. tug toys- those are only brought out for play. I leave three toys with puppies only, nylabones, real bones, and kongs. All other toys are “special” and brought out for play together. I want the pup to associate me with the fun toys. The interactive ones I do deprive them of unless we are working together. I do let my dogs play with each other with kongs- the pups never do get them so getting the toy is something they really want, my big dogs are great with puppies but don’t let them have toys. Search dog, “Rosa” is one that comes to mind- when she was here her dam, Poppy ruled the roost, Poppy had the toys and the pups never got them- or only for a few minutes at a time so I have a built in system for developing need for the toy. Because all of mine want them the older ones keep them from the pups which I have always thought worked for me not against me as I do the same in training. Then when they do earn the toy it is a true reward.

8. Are easily handled by anyone- lots of handling of the feet, face, tail, body all the time- pulling on the collar-cutting the nails, I hate goosey dogs.

9. Often just as easily worked by others- the dog that can generalize behaviors is a joy- I think that comes from passing them around early so that they have fun with other folks. I like how you raised Echo- she stayed with you- a weekend here and there with Steve so they don’t overly bond with one person or become so focused on one type of handling that they can’t adapt to different styles. NOW- that is the best thing about Labs- they are not Mals! Mals often are so loyal and so acutely aware of body language that they don’t shift as easily. That could be the problem with that Mal- just never learned that the toy is important even if not held by Mom (or Dad).

10. Kept healthy! I recommend raw but if not 100% then lots of raw meaty bones in that first year- watch the exercise. So far… I have had great sucess (and I don’t feel it is luck) in raising healthy dogs. If the pups are not on the raw diet then at least giving them bones gives them a natural source of Calcium and lots of opportunity to chew on the right things. Minimally vaccinating would also go in this category. A healthy dog is so important for work. I think maybe I do a small amount of everything but I am always ready to stop and not overdo anything so I don’t get injuries with my dogs- I don’t have them running two miles at six months- I try and think about the big picture-keep them safe especially while growing both body and mind!

WOW- isn’t this a neat way to communicate?! This is a “blog” page- you can look here for all the news from Matilija Labradors, Train That Puppy! This is what is happening today here in Ojai.